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Jess Stockwell in the U.S.A. sent this comprehensive illustrated account of fitting a new BT-H magneto to his Vincent. After five years of trouble with the standard KVF Vincent magneto, I
finally had enough. It was rebuilt twice during that time by reputable
technicians, yet still was a complete bear to start and sometimes would not
start at all. If I did finally get the Beast started and went somewhere, when I
wanted to make my way home, I didn’t trust that it would restart to take me
home. This is a death sentence for any motorcycle. As soon as they
become unreliable, they become relegated to sitting …“elevated” to the
position of garage art. I had tried everything that I could think of and was at
my wits end.
Below are a series of photographs I took during the installation process
that I thought might be helpful to others looking to replace their magneto with
one from BT-H Magnetos Ltd.
ET223/1 Steel Pinion Boss. E54 Self-Extracting Nut. ET 48 Fibre Gear/Pinion. (Tufnol) (4) 617 BA Screws. (4) 1021 (Lock Washers) I already had the flat washers.
You may need the following optional parts depending on your installation: ET 222 Rev-counter drive dog. ET 224 ET 219
This photo shows the magneto on the bike. The bracket holding the coils needed to be bent to fit under the magneto cowl. Note the stainless rod inserted into the magneto, locking the shaft in place. Note 1: When you fit the stainless locking rod be sure that the shaft is not 180 degrees out. The correct position is when centre dot on the taper of the shaft is at the top in line with the hole in the magneto body. There may also be an etched arrow on the end of the shaft pointing up in line with the body hole. (Web Master) Note2: The mounting bracket supplied is a stainless steel drilled strip. We have found that most Vincent owners like to put their own stamp on the installation by bending, twisting, or cutting this strip to their own preference. (Web Master)
Here is a little different angle showing the magneto in place on the bike. The coil bracket will have to be unscrewed and the coil assembly dropped down to gain access to the oil filter chamber for filter changes, a very small price to pay. Note the thin black wire that is dropping down out of frame. This wire gets attached to the kill switch on the handlebar.
After finding TDC, the magneto is timed at 35 degrees before TDC. Note the stainless locking rod still in place at the front of the motor. BT-H recommends that the bike be timed with 3-4 degrees less advance for use with modern fuels. I then placed my “fixed” magneto gear on the shaft and tightened the E54 nut to 15 foot pounds, removed the degree wheel and pointer before tightening the magneto down to the case. I removed the stainless rod from the magneto and put the brass inspection plug (not shown) back in the magneto and proceeded to button up the timing side of the motor. Spark Plugs used are NGK BP7ES gapped at .027
A photo of the bike done… It started on the first kick. In all subsequent starts it has taken no more than two kicks, even from dead cold.
In short, I am as happy as if I had good sense. The bike is easier to kick than it has ever been as the magneto automatically retards timing for starting. I have no fear of kickback (I broke my leg badly a year ago so this has become a concern). The internal electronic advance works beautifully and the motor pulls smoothly all the way through the RPM range. I don’t have to use Herculean force to swing the motor around. It just starts…nice and easy. Cheers! Jess Stockwell Jstockwell at charter.net (replace "at" with @ and remove spaces.)
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